You're playing a beautiful melody, and suddenly one note ruins the whole thing: instead of a clean sound, you get an unpleasant metallic rattle, a clack, or — the opposite — a dull, "dead" note with no response. Sound familiar? This is one of the most common kalimba problems, and it goes by several names: the "bzzz" effect, buzzing, or a "dead tine."
First, the reassuring part: in the vast majority of cases this is fixable at home in a few minutes. There's no need to return the instrument to the store. Let's figure out where the buzz comes from and how to deal with it.

Here's how sound is born on a kalimba: you pluck a metal tine, it vibrates, and that vibration is transferred to the wooden body, which amplifies the sound. Buzzing appears when something prevents the tine from vibrating freely, or when the vibration is transferred incorrectly.
The main causes:
Let's go through the solutions from simplest to more involved.
This is the first thing to try, because the most common cause of buzzing is the tine shifting in its slot due to vibration.
Carefully but firmly wiggle the problem tine left and right. Pluck it and listen — look for the position where the buzz disappears completely. Sometimes a shift of just a fraction of a millimeter is enough.
Important: once you've moved the tine, its pitch has almost certainly changed. Be sure to check the note on the Kalimbik homepage and retune if needed.
If a tine doesn't sit snugly against the bridge, a tiny gap remains. In that gap the tine "taps" as it vibrates — and that's your buzz.
What to do:
The paper fills the void and presses the tine firmly against the bridge. The buzz goes away, with almost no effect on volume. If one layer isn't enough, try folding the paper in half. For durability, some people use a thin strip of electrical tape instead of paper.
Sometimes the cause is mundane: a hair, a thread, or a dust particle has gotten under the tine. As it vibrates, this object creates an overtone.
Lift the tine and inspect the space under it and around the bridge. Blow it out or gently clean it with a thin brush. It takes half a minute, but it sometimes solves the problem instantly.
The kalimba's tines are held by a metal bar (the bridge clamp), fastened with screws. If it loosens, the tines sit loosely and buzz in groups.
If several tines in a row buzz, carefully tighten the clamp screws — literally a quarter turn. Don't overtighten: too much pressure will, on the contrary, dampen the sound and make tuning harder.
Note: after tightening the clamp, the pitch of all the tines will most likely change. Be prepared to retune the whole instrument.
On 17-note kalimbas, the shortest tines at the edges often sound noticeably quieter and shorter — their sustain (how long the note rings) is almost nonexistent. Many people mistake this for a defect, but it's neither buzzing nor a fault.
Why this happens: a short, stiff piece of metal physically has a harder time getting going and transferring vibration to the wooden body. That's the laws of physics, not an instrument defect.
What you can do:
It buzzes after changing/repositioning tines — is that normal? If you recently changed or repositioned tines, buzzing is almost inevitable until they "settle" back into place. Start with Method 1 (shifting) and check the clamp bar.
It only rings in a certain room — what is that? It may not be the tine itself buzzing, but something in the room resonating, or the body reacting to the acoustics. Try playing somewhere else to rule out external resonance.
Can I play a kalimba that buzzes slightly? You can, but the rattle will show up in recordings and during quiet playing. It's better to spend five minutes fixing it — the sound becomes noticeably cleaner.
The paper keeps falling out — what do I do? Use a slightly larger piece or a thin strip of electrical tape, which holds better. The key is not to overdo the thickness, or the sound will become dull.
After any repair, be sure to check the tuning on the Kalimbik homepage — shifting a tine almost always changes the note's pitch.